Casa La Pace Blog

Life in Real Italy

Casa La Pace Blog - Life in Real Italy

First Snow!


The Segone

Pepper and I have been in the Serchio Valley since June, 2010.  We have
enjoyed 6 autumns, some prettier than others.  This year’s edition has been incredible!  We’ve had long stretches of sunshine and very little rain.  If anything, it has been a little warmer than I’d like – but I’m not complaining!  It took a while, but the trees finally began losing their leaves a couple of weeks ago.



Last Saturday brought our first heavy downpour.  It rained all day, becoming ever wetter as the day progressed.  What a surprise, then, to wake up to crystal-clear skies and cooler temperatures on Sunday.  Since then, it has been “sweater weather”.


Even more thrilling was to discover that the mountains were blanketed in snow, both the Appennini and the Alpi Apuane.  An afternoon or two has been overcast since then. But most days, like today, are sunny and cool.  The perfect end to a perfect autumn.



We can only hope that winter is as “picture perfect”!


Pania della Croce

150 TripAdvisor Reviews!

When Pepper and I were preparing to open Casa La Pace, my cousin mentioned a website named ‘TripAdvisor’.  I told her that I’d never heard of it. She responded that she used it extensively to plan her trips.  When I mentioned this to Pepper, he of course knew all about it – and had already put Casa La Pace on the website, ready for our first review.

We’ve been delighted and honored to read the reviews our guests submit to TripAdvisor. We enjoy welcoming guests to Casa La Pace, and would do our best in any case. But it is a great feeling to know that our efforts are recognized.

We recently reached 150 reviews.  This may seem like a small number, but to us it’s a thrilling milestone. Not every guest submits a review, of course. It represents a small sample of the wonderful people who have stayed with us since we opened in 2011.

My experience has been that someone with a complaint is ready and willing to share it with others. So we are doubly proud that the reviews are almost exclusively top-rated.

We are grateful to each and every one of you who has shared your review on TripAdvisor.

Please check out our TripAdvisor page.  Casa La Pace


2015 Guests – so far

As summer comes to an end, I’m looking back on the year so far. Casa La Pace had a terrific spring and summer. As I remember this year’s guests, it is a mix of old and young, but each fascinating in his/her own way. I can honestly say we were sad at each departure.
* An old schoolmate. Rita had already been here once, bringing along a nephew. This time she treated her niece, a lovely girl who was open to new adventures.
* A couple from central Arkansas and his sister from Kansas. Husband and wife were recently retired and we were delighted to learn of so many friends in common. Janet is also retired (from the postal service) and is also a very talented artist. She honored us by giving us a few pieces she created in our courtyard.
* 4 ‘crazy’ ladies who had been long-time friends. They filled the house with more laughter than we’ve ever had before.
* Another 4 ladies from central Arkansas, wealthier than our average clientele. One owns a car dealership and another used to own a golf course. But they were as sweet and interesting as any of our other guests.
* 2 single ladies, one who celebrated her 70th birthday with us and the other a retired newspaper owner. Judith is passionate about criminal justice reform. Kitty has promised to write a profile of Casa La Pace.
* Relatives of a neighbor. They were with his sister most of the time, so we didn’t get to spend much time with them. Breakfast was our opportunity to learn more about this young couple from a different region of Italy.
* Father and wife, daughter and husband, all from Arkansas, but none from the Little Rock area. All 4 had fascinating stories and I felt like we just scratched the surface, even though they were with us for a full week.
* 20-something couple from Louisiana (soon to be Texas). I got to know them better during our day trip to Firenze. How surprised was I to their response to my query of what they were listening to on their shared earphones: not the latest pop or country hit, but a podcast from NPR!
* A German and his family. Pepper and I met Bernd when we lived in Colorado. It was wonderful to catch up on his life from when he was a young, eager college student and meet Isabelle and their two adorable children. It was a memorable week and I was on the verge of tears when they left.
* Arkansas girl and her former-exchange student friend from Germany. Abbie and Pascale remind me that spending more time with ‘the younger generation’ is a wonderful way to sweep away the negative perceptions that I can allow to develop.
* 7 ladies, 5 older and 2 younger, from Mississippi. They found us through our great friends David Taliaferro and Norma. They now have a terrific story that could be entitled ‘the delights and dangers of Italian train travel’.
* A redhead and his wife, recently retired, who sail during their vacations. They made a brief visit to Casa La Pace on their way home from a sailing adventure in the Seychelles.
* Our dear friends from S Florida. This is Bernie and Toni’s 3rd visit to Casa La Pace and definitely the most satisfying (for me, anyway). More generous and loving friends you won’t find.
* 5 Italians from Toscana and Emiglia-Romagna, in Ghivizzano because of their common passion for vintage motorcycles. Their days were preprogrammed, so we hardly got to see them. But they’ve all promised to return to Casa La Pace for a longer visit.
* An Arkansas family who, at the same time as our move to Italy, they moved to Mexico for three years. Katherine and Mike, Matthew and Russell were a marvelous, fascinating group. We are honored that they included us in their month-long travels throughout France, Italy, and Spain.

We are excited that September, October, and November will bring a fresh wave of guests. I’m looking forward to reflecting on them at year-end.

Casa La Pace – new and improved!

Since ‘a picture paints a thousand words’, I won’t write a lot in this blog post.  Instead, I’ll let the images tell the story.

We bought the house in 2009 and don’t know how long ago the house was last painted.

This was the front of the house before we began.

Casa La Pace before

The first step was to patch the cracks.

Casa La Pace during 1

Then the workers applied an undercoat, which should limit cracks and impede mold growth.

Casa La Pace during 2

Then the new color was applied – it was so exciting to watch the transformation.

scaffolding 3

After finishing the front of the house, they moved to the side facing Ghivizzano Alto. Scaffolding 1

Thank goodness the road next to the house is now closed.

Scaffolding 2

And now Casa La Pace is more beautiful than ever, inside and out.

This is the front of the house as seen within the courtyard.

Casa La Pace After 1

And this is the house as you see it when climbing the path from the train station.

Casa La Pace after 2

We hope you’ll come see for yourself how beautiful Casa La Pace is.

Exciting changes at Casa La Pace

When we bought our house in 2009, we recognized that many improvements would be required.  Since then, we completely renovated the interior. We also made important changes to the outside, including replacing the two roofs on the front of the house (one is pictured here) and installing solar panels.


But we postponed ‘cosmetic’ changes until we were satisfied that Casa La Pace was structurally sound and as comfortable for our guests as possible.

Finally, though, we have begun the work to repair and repaint the outside of the house.

Check back soon for pictures of the new-and-improved Casa La Pace!


I love springtime in all its colors, sounds and smells. 2015 promises to be a spectacular one. Winter in the Serchio valley was very nice this year. It was cold, especially at night. But that is a welcome development, as last winter was one of unusucamelias1al warmth – which led to a wet, mild spring and summer.  This year, the mountains around us are blanketed in heavy snow.  Fortunately, it hasn’t fallen in the valley, so we are able to enjoy the beauty without the inconvenience.  We’ve had a moderate number of rainy days. But we haven’t had long stretches of gray, dreary weather and I remember many days of sunshine so far this year.


With the passing of the spring equinox, the valley appears to be still stuck in winter. But small signs of the season are springing up (pardon the pun). While the mountains are still austerely brown, the shrubs that grow in the stream wildflowersbeds and alongside the Serchio river are flares of bright green leaves. Today, we drove into the mountains nearby. I noticed an occasional tree that had branches whose tips are pregnant with new growth; not yet ready to burst forth, the trees are holding their breath, waiting for warmer days. The meadows are already green, even in the higher elevation, and low wildflowers are sprinkled about.


The courtyard of Casa La Pace is in bloom, as are many ornamental shrubs and trees incamelias 2 our neighborhood. Our camelias are especially beautiful this year (I like to think it’s because I learned from my mistake of two years ago and pruned at the right time in 2014).  Fragrant hyacinth hyacinthstems dance in the afternoon sun. And the pansies, which I planted in the fall, are beginning to bloom again. The rose branches are sprouting bright red growth, bursting with new life.  I don’t expect rose blossoms for another few weeks, but the new leaves are colorful additions to the courtyard.  It is exciting to measure the progress of spring by the reawakening of each plant, flower, and tree. quince

Spring also represents the beginning of the season for Casa La Pace. We’ve taken advantage of the slow winter days to make more changes to the house. (Most of the improvements are for comfort, improved efficiency, or normal repairs,  and the majority will be invisible to our guests).  We’re excited that our first guests arrive on March 22nd, only a couple of days after spring officially arrives.  We’re looking forward to an even more exciting year in 2015 and the joy of making new friends and welcoming previous guests and old friends back to Casa La Pace.


2014 in review

Another year has flown by. It doesn’t seem possible that 2014 has ended already. 2014 was a banner year for Casa La Pace. And for Pepper and I, it was another year of new friends and wonderful memories.

Pepper and I began the year with a visit to friends and family in the U.S.  We were there 6 weeks.  That sounds like a nice long trip, but in fact it still was not enough time to see everyone we had hoped to.

This year, Casa La Pace’s season began in April around Easter.  It lasted until early December, so we had a longer season than ever before. During that time we welcomed more guests than any prior year.  As I think back on all the faces, I remember fondly the many people from around the world who graced our home.

I’m glad that we had a diverse guest list.  Although the majority were Wes & SvenAmericans, we welcomed our first Belgians and our first Italians (can you believe it took 3 years?)  We enjoyed our Belgian friends so much that we went to Gent in December for a few days to spend more time with them.


I remember 2014 as a warm, wet year.  (And the latest news is that 2014 was the warmest year on record globally).  There were several months of gorgeous weather, fortunately.   Spring and autumn were quite nice and there were glorious stretches of warmth and sunshine.  Unfortunately, summer was almost non-existent, with more than average rainfall and not a single truly hot day. November was quite rainy, as usual. And December unusually warm, with several days of record high temperatures. The first cold snap arrived with Santo Stefano, i.e. only a week before the New Year.

Some of our guests had personal connections. I met a cousin of my father; she remembered me from when I was very little, but I didn’t really remember her. Our paths hadn’t crossed since the mid-1970s.  I was happy to get to know Jennifer and her husband. They provided new stories of my family. And more importantly, they were great company.  I was sorry that they were with us for only a couple of days.

Pepper’s brother, his wife, and her son came for a visit during the summer. It was his brother’s 3rd visit to Casa La Pace, but the first for his stepson. We had a great time at Casa La Pace and took the opportunity to travel with them.

Our young friend David spent almost a full year in Europe. He bicycled around the British Isles, working odd jobs in the spring and early summer.  Afterwards, he crossed the Channel and met up with his family in Belgium.  He later headed south, crossing France and the Italian Alps, arriving at our house in mid-August. He was with us for about a month. We loved spending time with David, who we hadn’t seen much of since we lived in Arkansas. He regaled with stories of his bicycling and ‘woofing’ adventures and I even bicycled with him in the Serchio Valley.  We were sad ‘uncles’ the day he rode away, off to southern France and Spain.

Speaking of Spain, our first Spanish guest actually lives in Berlin with his husband.  Paco is a newscaster for a German television channel that broadcasts in Spanish language news of Germany to Spain and Latin America.  He is perhaps more famous abroad than at home.  We were honored to spend time with a celebrity – who is a delightful, normal guy.


We are proud that Casa La Pace was a honeymoon destination for at least 5 couples.  One happy pair even left behind their one-year old (no easy sacrifice, I’m sure) to enjoy a delayed honeymoon with us. Another beautiful young couple are both post-graduate scientists in Puerto Rico.

jaaziel and beatrice

Ancestral connections were important to a family who came from Boston late in the summer. Pat’s grandparents were from this area: his grandmother was from Lucignana and his grandfather from Ghivizzano.  Pat had never been to Italy until he came to Casa La Pace.  The family had an incredible week, meeting long-lost relatives and learning of property they didn’t know the family still owns.  They also learned the moving story of an uncle who played an important role in the partigiani (Italian resistance movement) during World War II.

Other special guestsanne & kristin were Anne and her daughter Kristin, who arrived in October.  We first met Anne when she and her other daughter came to Ghivizzano in 2009, before our house was Casa La Pace.  During her first visit, she and Juli sanded and drilled, nailed and cleaned, helping us improve our house.  Anne’s first stay was almost a hardship, as we didn’t have interior doors nor hot water.  We were proud that on this visit she and Kristin could take long, hot showers and see how much Casa La Pace has improved since those early days.

We had several return visitors; we are proud that they enjoyed their previous gail and harleyvisit and wanted to return to Ghivizzano.  Among them was Gail, who first came to Casa La Pace as ladies-only outing.  This time, she wanted to share Italy with her husband.  He is as kind and interesting as she.



Speaking of ladies only, one of the most memorable groups was 6 women, almost all somehow related.  We tried explaining to Ramona and Grazia, our good friends who liveelaine & family nearby, the relationship between them all.  I kept getting confused, and forgetting the Italian for ‘in-law’, ‘step-mother’, etc., and it all ended in laughter.  Ramona and Grazia still ask fondly about Elaine and her group.


Our final guests of the year were with us for Thanksgiving.  This family of 6 could not have been more interesting and entertaining.  Father and mother are both doctors and their 4 children (two girls and two boys) are typical teenagers – in all the right ways.  Italy doesn’t observe Thanksgiving, but we appreciated being together with fellow Americans on this special day.

I’m also happy to end this reflection with good news for the coming year.  2015 is shaping up to be another good year.  We have many confirmed reservations for our new season.  We’re hoping for another banner year.  And I’m certain many guests will arrive strangers and depart as friends.



Hiking – Monte Forato

We recently had several guests who wanted to hike during their stay with us.  I was thrilled to share with them what little I know.  The mountains around us are covered with trails and we’ve spotted many well-marked trails during our (too few) outings.  To the east, the Apennines separate Toscana from Emiglia-Romagna and many of the trails cross between the two regions.  The mountains to our west, the Alpi Apuane, are similarly a web of trails, some leading over the passes to the Mare Tirreno (Mediterranean Sea).

The Serchio Valley has always been an important trade route between the various countries that make up our area, including Lucca, Modena, and Firenze.  The inhabitants of the valley since prehistoric times have traveled between villages following ‘mulettiere’ (mule trails).  As a result, there is a wealth of possibilities for the hiker, whether beginner or mountain climber.

When we havFornovolascoe free time and good weather,I try to explore new trails.  But Casa La Pace keeps us busy, so I haven’t had many opportunities to hike.  When the various guests asked about hiking possibilities, I directed them first to an information office in Castelnuovo.  Friends had raved about a great hike to Monte Forato and so I recommended it heartily (and crossing my fingers that I wasn’t leading them astray).

A sunny Sunday in October provided the perfect opportunity for me to ‘put my money where my mouth is’: to hike up to Monte Forato to see if it really is worth the effort.

My friend Giuseppe and I arrived in the beautiful village of Fornovolasco Torrentearound noon.  Fornovolasco is at the base of the Alpi Apuane and the start of the trail up to the summit.  The trail was well marked out of the village. Right away, we encountered a group of 20 or 30 Italians preparing to climb the mountain, too. (Italians love clothes and always dress for the occasion. You’ll rarely see an Italian on a bicycle who is not wearing the appropriate outfit, expensive glasses, and helmet. These folks were wearing climbing shirts and pants, as well as specialized boots.  I, on the other hand, had on a long-sleeve t-shirt, denim shorts, and hiking boots.

The hike began on a gradual incline, passing through lush green forests. In Fornovolasco towerplaces, the trail consisted of stones, cut and placed in precise patterns. This a sure sign that this trail was once an important via, not simply a pasttime trail. The weather was perfect for our entire hike. It was slightly chilly in the shade and beneath the dense canopy of chestnuts, oaks, and other deciduous trees.  As we climbed and exerted ourselves more, we stayed cool and hardly sweated.

We continued hiking and the path turned gradually steeper.  We occasionally encountered hikers descending, but the trail was mostly empty. Giuseppe is well-read and we talked politics, the Italian economy, feminism, and other subjects arcane and profound. Before I knew it, we reach tree line. Quickly the climb became difficult and I was glad to be wearing the hiking boots. The path cut deeply into the mountain, exposing the white granite (or marble?) and many loose rocks.  Our conversation petered out and we began to breathe deeply.

I was beginning to wonder if this was such a great climb to recommend to our guests.  Until nEastern viewow it hadn’t been difficult, but I wasn’t sure what lie ahead and perhaps the casual hiker would not be able to reach the summit.  At that moment, two children, about 4 and 7 years old, came scampering down the trail toward us. They barely paused to let us struggle past; I was determined not to allow mere toddlers show me up! After a 5-minute pause to catch our breath, I looked above us and was relieved to realize that the arch was close. The final 20 minutes are most difficult part of the climb.

The arch, which gives the mountain its name (‘forato’ means pierced in Italian), Arch from aboveis a unique feature in the Alpi Apuane.  It is clearly visible from Barga, though not as large as it seems from far away.  It is still impressive, especially when I look through it to the other side of the mountain chain.  The eastern slope, which we ascended, is the more gentle climb.  The western side, facing the Mediterranean, seems almost a sheer drop hundreds of meters to the villages in the valley below.

A short climb pIl monte foratoast the arch brought us to the summit. There is no marker indicating the altitude, but wikipedia informs me that we were at 1,230 meters above sea level.  The views in all directions were breathtaking. East you can see the Serchio Valley, then Barga, and the Apennines beyond.  To the west is the Tirreanean Sea. To the south, Lago Masaciuccoli glistens.

Giuseppe and I picnicked on the summit.  As always, the l'uomo mortocheese, bread, and beer tasted much more delicious in the open air.  It was sunny and breezy, a perfect October day to be ‘on top of the world’.  There were perhaps 50 other people during the half hour we lazed up there.  Giuseppe took a short nap.  But I was attentive to the time – it was already 3:30 p.m. or so – and was concerned that we not end our hike in the dark.

We took a different path for the descent. This one traveled longer along the mountain ridge, so we had a series of stupendous views for at least 30 minutes before View to the westwe dropped down into the woods towards Fornovolasco. Along the way, we saw absolutely no one. But there were many signs of human activity.  There are petroglyphs throughout the Alpe Apuane, signs that these mountains have been inhabited for thousands of years.


We were nabandoned churckot fortunate enough to stumble upon any petroglyphs, but we did pass an ancient ruin of a church. Giuseppe explained that these trails were also pilgrimage routes and religious hostels were scattered throughout the area. Later, we past an old sluice and a mill; man has been harnessing water as a power source for a very long time.

Old mill

We arrived in Fornovolasco at dusk, tired but satisfied. Fornovolasco streamHow delightful to spot a bar, its bright light beaconing us to enter.  We each had a hot tea (Giuseppe lived several years in the U.K.) and a chat with the proprietor, a kind old man with a gentle smile.  On one wall was a photo of a drawing of Fornovolasco in 1498.  It shows a mill, smelting furnace, and chimney, the most advanced factory complex for producing iron of the territory of the Este family.

On the summit

Our entire journey lasted about 6 hours. I can now wholeheartedly recount my first-hand experience of the hike to Monte Forato for the next intrepid guests of Casa La Pace.

2014 weather – part II

First, the good news: September was spectacular!  I recall only one 3-day stretch of rain during the whole month.  I’m fairly certain that was the same time that the entire Arno plain was attacked by a terrific storm system.  From Viareggio to Firenze, there were downed trees, torrential downpours, and even a carpet of hail on the streets of Firenze.

During September, the days were warm and sunny, with highs often approaching 30 degrees.  The nights were deliciously cool, just enough to Bicycle Day 1warrant long sleeves, but never cold enough for a jacket. On several occasions, I was able to go for bicycle ride.  As I rode, I noted the small signs of the coming change of season.  The cherry trees were almost bare.  The summer flowers are still in the fields, but the stalks are now  brown and brittle, the seeds either waiting to fall or already safely tucked in for the winter in the earth below.  The swallows departed, leaving behind an empty stillness.

There are new colors, too; Mother Nature still has a couple of months to show grape leaves 2her glory. Along the river are vast stretches of golden flowers, resembling black-eyed susans. The roadsides are sprinkled with wildflowers, their yellows and purples dancing in the wind. Asters are tucked in the corner of many gardens. And Virginia creeper and grape vines have begun to turn from green to flaming copper.

The good weather of September was especially welcome because August wasn’t wonderful.  In fact, this year, we didn’t have much of a summer at all. As with July, in August there were an incredible number of rainy days. Quite often, the morning would be rainy but the afternoon sunny, or vice versa. But there were also a few unfortunate days of gray clouds from dawn until dusk.  In the Serchio Valley, and indeed, almost all of the Italian peninsula, it typically doesn’t rain from mid-July until late August.  This year was a summer for the record books.

October is so far ‘variable’ (a favorite word of Italian Bicycle Day 2weather forecasters).  We’ve had quite a few days of rain, but several days of wonderful sunshine.  In fact, the weekends have been beautiful, so we’ve been able to get out and enjoy Tuscany in autumn.


Why ‘La Pace’?

A month after we bought the house in Ghivizzano, Pepper and I came to Localita’ Camparlese Number 6 for a short stay. We were still living in the U.S. (North Little Rock, AR) and were nervous and excited to see our ‘new’ house.

Over the following 3 weeks, I completed a long list of items: changing the utilities to my name, finding an architect to begin planning the renovations, our first visits to Bar Sport, Maria Pia, and other businesses in town. It was a cold March and we slept many nights under newly-purchased blankets and piles of coats.  Most days were sunny, though, and we quickly fell in love with Ghivizzano and the Serchio Valley.

We hadn’t decided on a name for the proposed bed and breakfast (and we were blissfully unaware that we were still a long, long way from our inauguration, so we would have plenty of time to decide.)  I wanted something that conveyed the tranquility of our promontory, away from Via Nazionale and traffic. It was quiet at night and we slept with the windows open, serenaded by the Segone, the stream that flows between Camparlese and Ghivizzano Alto.  Pepper proposed names that captured our natural surroundings: the forests, mountains, and the Serchio river. He rejected my suggestions as being too much like the name of an assisted-living residence. I rejected his proposals because to me they gave the impression that we were in the wilderness, probably fending off bears. So we were at an impasse, awaiting inspiration.

On one of our last days before returning to the U.S., I had a rare moment of idleness. The previous owner had mentioned in passing that a plaque over the front door  possibly showed the year the house was built. (In fact, our neighbors’ house has a corner stone with ‘1746’ clearly incised).  To me, it was an illegible gray rectangle, with vague characters in low relief. I was curious to know how old our house is and decided that a rubbing might reveal the date on the plaque.  I grabbed a pencil and piece of paper.  I placed a chair in front of the door and climb onto it. Up close, the plaque was obviously tin, not stone, so I was disappointed; this was not going to be at all like our neighbors’ cornerstone. But I was there on the chair and felt I should finish what I started. I held the paper over the plaque and began rubbing the side of the pencil against the paper.  Slowly, like magic, instead of numbers, letters began to appear.  L-A P-A-C-E.  I felt goose bumps and almost fell from the chair.  I jumped down and rushed to bring Pepper the paper.  We looked at each other and suddenly knew our home already had a name. Casa La Pace is ‘House of Peace’.

La Pace

Five years on, the plaque had become even more illegible and rust was La Pace in progressbeginning to show.  After much cajoling, Pepper decided to paint it so that everyone can read the name.   Our good friend David, who is cycling through Europe (and ‘wooff’ing during a good portion of his journey) was staying with us for a couple of weeks.  He was ready to lend us a hand on any task. So Pepper supervised while David applied the color.

We still aren’t sure when our house was built, but I am happy to know that we’ve chosen just the right name.